HYPERPIGMENTATION TREATMENT OPTIONS AND EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW!
Let’s start by analyzing what Skin pigmentation is;
This refers to the natural color of a person’s skin, which is determined by the amount and type of melanin produced by melanocytes (specialized skin cells). Melanin acts as a protective pigment, shielding the skin from harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays. Variations in skin pigmentation can occur due to genetics, sun exposure, medical conditions, or environmental factors.
Types of Skin Pigmentation
Skin pigmentation can be categorized into two broad categories: normal pigmentation and disorders of pigmentation (hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation).
1. Normal Skin Pigmentation
This includes the natural variations in skin color based on:
- Genetics: Determines your skin tone (light, medium, or dark).
- UV Exposure: Tanning or bronzing caused by sun exposure.
- Melanin Distribution: Differences in melanin concentration across body parts (e.g., darker elbows, knees).
2. Disorders of Skin Pigmentation
These are conditions caused by an imbalance in melanin production or distribution.
A. Hyperpigmentation
Excess production of melanin, leading to darker patches on the skin. Examples include:
- Melasma: Dark, irregular patches, often triggered by hormones or sun exposure.
- Age Spots/Sunspots (Solar Lentigines): Flat, brown spots caused by sun damage, commonly on exposed areas.
- Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): Dark spots left after an injury, acne, or other skin inflammation.
- Freckles: Small, flat spots that become darker with sun exposure, common in fair-skinned individuals.
B. Hypopigmentation
Reduced melanin production, resulting in lighter or white patches on the skin. Examples include:
- Vitiligo: Irregular white patches due to the destruction of melanocytes.
- Albinism: A genetic condition with a complete lack of melanin, affecting skin, hair, and eyes.
- Post-Inflammatory Hypopigmentation: Lighter spots caused by skin damage or healing from inflammation.
C. Mixed Pigmentation
Both hyperpigmented and hypopigmented patches can coexist due to conditions like:
- Tinea Versicolor: A fungal infection causing discolored patches, often seen on the back, chest, or shoulders.
HYPERPIGMENTATION
What is hyperpigmentation?
It occurs when there is over production of melanin on the skin causing patches of the skin to become darker than the sorrounding skin
Types of hyperpigmentation
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
- Melasma
- Sunspots/ Age spots/ Solar Lentigines
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
This happens when your skin makes extra melanin as a reaction to irritation or injury. The most common causes of this type of hyperpigmentation is acne, infection, eczema, burns
Epidermal PIH can fade after 4months while dermal PIH can last years. PIH also tends to be most common on dark skin individuals and lasts longer on dark skin.
Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation Treatment
It can fade on its own after a few months but we also have topical medications that help speed up the process. These products can either be a cream or serum that target this specific skin concern. The best treatment for acne scars and dark spots contains one of these ingredients listed below.
Ingredients you need to look for when healing PIH:
- Hydroquinone
- tretinoin
- Arbutin
- Vitamin C
- Corticosteroid
- Tranexamic Acid
- Kojic Acid
- Azelaic Acid
- Glycolic Acid
- Licorice extracts
You can use a product with one of these ingredients but they work best when combined. A technique known as combined therapy.
Melasma
Caused by an excess melanin production that leaves brown patches or freckle like spots on the skin. Common areas for melasma to appear on the face are; chin, forehead, cheeks, upper lip, bridge of nose.
Melasma is more common on women than men since on of its major trigger is hormonal changes. It affects pregnant women and is more common during a woman’s reproductive years.
Factors that can trigger melasma:
- Hormonal changes- during pregnancy, birth control pills or other hormonal medications
- Genetics- genes also play a role if some people in your family have melasma you can also get it
- Anti- seizure medications
- Hypothyroidism
- Skin irritation
- Sun exposure
Melasma mostly disappears on its own if its cause was pregnancy or birth control pills. It can also be stubborn and last a few years or the rest of your life.
Topical treatments used to treat it;
- Hydroquinone
- Retinoids
- Azelaic Acid
- Kojic Acid
- Corticosteroids
- Tretinoin
Sunspots/ Age spots/ Solar Lentigines
Dark patches that appear on the face, shoulder and hands due to prolonged sun exposure. Sunspots are caused when there is overactivity of the tyrosinase enzyme
Overactivity can occur as a result of aging hence why the condition is called age spots
So, How do you get rid of sunspots? First of all Age spots tend to be more common on light skin adults and also tend not to fade. they also affect individuals with a history of frequent intense sun exposure.
Causes of sunspots;
- UV Exposure- prolonged UV exposure over time
- Aging- the skin becomes less capable of repairing UV damage hence age spots may occur
- Skin color- lighter skin tones are more prone to sunspots due to less melanin protection.
Treatment options
- Retinoids
- Vitamin C
- Niacinamide
- Hydroquinone
Prevention options
It is best to actually try and prevent sunspots than treat them. Great prevention measures are;
- Wear your sunscreen- SPF 30+ Daily
- Avoid peak sun hours- sun tends to be intense between 10am and 2 pm it is best to minimize sun exposure during this time
- Protective clothing.
SKINCARE INGREDIENTS THAT HELP WITH HYPERPIGMENTATION
We have mentioned a couple of ingredients that target dark spot above. This is how they work;
Hydroquinone
It works by inhibiting tyrosinase from converting DOPA to skin pigment melanin.
Hydroquinone is used to treat epidermal hyperpigmentation and is mostly found in a cream form with concentration of between 1%-5%. You can also get it combined with other lightening agents to offer the best results.
However, hydroquinone has it effects so consult with your dermatologists on the safe ways to use it.
Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic acid reduces melanocyte activity. It inhibits the interaction between melanocytes and keratinocytes.
It is most effective on post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to its anti-inflammatory properties.
Arbutin
Works by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and is used to fade mild & moderate hyperpigmentation on individuals with lighter skin tones.
A less gentler and less potent ingredient for people with sensitive skin.
Retinoids
They work by speeding up cell turnover and boosting collagen production. They also work by preventing the transfer of pigment from melanocytes to skin cells.
Retinoids are best used at night and always start with a low concentration when incorporating it into your skincare routine.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is popular for its skin brightening benefits. It can’t treat hyperpigmentation alone hence best used when combined with other treatments.
It is also used to boost collagen production, protect skin from oxidative stress and improve skin’s radiance.
Niacinamide
It works by stopping the transfer of melanin to the surface of the skin hence reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
Also contains anti-inflammatory properties hence ideal for acne prone and sensitive skin types
Kojic Acid
Prevents melanin formation by inhibiting tyrosinase. The good thing about kojic acid is that it also prevents the formation of new pigmentation.
Kojic acid also protects against environmental damage due to its presence of antioxidant properties
Azelaic Acid
It helps kill acne causing bacteria and also inhibits enzyme tyrosinase making it a good option for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Ideal for acne prone skin and sensitive skin types. You can combined it with other therapies for faster results.
CONCLUSION
Hyperpigmentation is a common skin concern and it affects a large number of people. though it causes no harm it is unsightly for a majority number of people since we all want a flawless skin. Many cover them with makeup products but since not every one has the time to keep on applying makeup every single day the best option is to try and fade or heal them with the above listed ingredients
Curate a daily skincare routine that incorporates a sunscreen. Using sunscreen prevents further worsening of the condition. Don’t forget to wear protective clothing such as hats to minimize sun exposure. Other healing ingredients can be used on their own or combine them for faster results. Pick ingredients that will cater for your specific concern and work well with your skin type because there is definitely something for every one.
Use these products to get flawless skin in 2025 and beyond.
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